JC Cyclists.

Acadia said:
I like the resistance the Kurt Road Machine gives, but with me being a big guy (6'4" & 205lbs), I never feel like I can get out of the saddle without beating the hec out of the frame I use on the trainer. I have never been comfortable with it in that regard, and I really like to be in and out of the saddle to keep my lower back happy. I decided to buy a commercial quality indoor bike to train on, and with that here the Kurt seemed better off sold to help pay for the new toy. The indoor bike really feels killer and I can throw anything at it. I know there are pro's and con's to going this route, but I think it is a good choice for me.

Glad to hear you are on to PT; I hope that goes well and quickly.
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Thanks man, Yeah at 6'5" and 185lbs I am in the same boat, thats probably my favorite part about the rock and roll though, it gives and takes the beating so the bike doesn't. What kind of stationary did you get?
 
Pilotforhire587 said:
Thanks man, Yeah at 6'5" and 185lbs I am in the same boat, thats probably my favorite part about the rock and roll though, it gives and takes the beating so the bike doesn't. What kind of stationary did you get?
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Schwinn AC Performance: Chain drive with magnetic resistance. It is very smooth and feels remarkably like being on the road bike. It was between this and the Keiser, but I liked what I was reading more about the Schwinn.

ac-performance-1.jpg
 
Acadia said:
Schwinn AC Performance: Chain drive with magnetic resistance. It is very smooth and feels remarkably like being on the road bike. It was between this and the Keiser, but I liked what I was reading more about the Schwinn.

ac-performance-1.jpg
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Nice looking bike man! I like that you can clip into it.
 
The pedals are the nice commercial weight ones gym spin bikes have, and they accept Look on one side and SPD on the other. The cranks and bottom bracket assembly could support an elephant, so no worries about working this thing to death.
 
Thats really cool! Any of you guys ride speedplay pedals? I current ride the mid grade Look Keo's but I am thinking about switching. Wanted some opinions before I do.
 
I just did my first hard workout on the stationary bike (had been waiting as I recovered from flu). For me it was night and day from the bike on a stand trainer because I could really give 100% to the sufferfest video I was watching. BTW anyone looking for video fodder for indoor ride training should check out: http://www.thesufferfest.com/.

Looking forward to some abusive training until I can get back out on the road in spring.
 
My wife rides Speedplays, but that's all she's ever ridden, so I doubt asking her for a pro/con or comparo would do you much good. I can ask, though.
 
Pilotforhire587 said:
What is it? pics?
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Trek 7300, last year's model I think (but really who cares about that), got it on clearance at my local bike shop after going to like 5 shops and riding something like 10 bikes.

Rode 35 miles on it today, second time I've ridden it. Got the seat height dialed in. I can't even tell you how much lighter and nicer/easier/faster it is to ride than my old K-mart special ;)

I heart my new bike!
 
SO I finally decided what I am going to build up for a new CRIT bike. Going with the Specialized Allez Black Race Frameset. I am most likely going to buy a full Shimano Dura Ace 9000 groupset and put it on the Madone and move the 7900 groupset currently on the Madone to the Allez. I am definitely going to go with a carbon seatpost, stem, and bars; but I haven't decided what brand or models yet. I really like the Bontrager XXX lite equipment that is on the Madone but I havenever ridden anything different. Any of you guys have recommendations for components and wheels? I am looking for a good set of stiff aluminum CRIT wheels and a set of carbon tubulars for racing on the Madone.

Lets hear your suggestions.
 
I have Speedplay Zeroes and they are awesome. I had Look pedals before but ended up having some issues with my knees. I switched to Zeroes about 4 years ago and haven't looked back. It took me about a week to get used to the float, there is no tension and your feet feel like you are sliding around but after you get used to it they're great. You can clip in on either side which I like and I have only had about one issue with my knees since switching. I keep the cleats clean and use a dry wax lubricant about once every 1-2 weeks and also wear cleat covers when I'm walking around to extend the life.

As far as wheels are concerned if you're going to race get something you can afford to rebuild/replace. My crit bike has Mavic Ksyrium Elites, they're light and stiff enough. There are some good Neuvation wheels available for cheap and also look into custom wheels from local wheel builders. I had some Easton EA-90 SLX that were decent but not stiff, had some EA-90 Aeros that were stiff but kept popping spokes. Had some heavy Shimano RS-10's that a buddy gave me that I didn't like. Had a set of Mavic Open Pros with high spoke count that were heavy, stiff, and bombproof. There are so many options available, check out www.roadbikereview.com, there are forums and even a separate forum for wheels and tires. If you do decide to go custom and crash and break a spoke or rim they can rebuild the wheel cheaper than what it would cost to replace the wheel.

I don't think I will ever get another set of tubulars. They're just too much of a pain, the ride sure is sweet and probably the best I've experienced but it wasn't worth my time. If you've never had tubulars they are messy and time consuming, but if you're just going to use them for racing they might not be a bad option. I didn't mind taking the time to stretch the tires and then glue them, it was cleaning the rims that was the PITA. I had a set of Zipp 404 cross wheels that had 32 spokes front and back that were stiff as you know what and they weighed about 1300 grams. I bought them from a Zipp rep, they weren't available for sale to the public. Not only were they stiff, they rode like a dream but I got several flats and got tired of cleaning the rims. If you do end up getting tubulars you should look into Stans sealant, after I started using that I didn't have a single flat. I switched to Zipp 404 Firecrest clinchers just over a year ago and haven't looked back.

I need to get some pics of my new MTB up, I'm back on the trails since jtrain keeps making fun of roadies.
 
EDUC8-or said:
I have Speedplay Zeroes and they are awesome. I had Look pedals before but ended up having some issues with my knees. I switched to Zeroes about 4 years ago and haven't looked back. It took me about a week to get used to the float, there is no tension and your feet feel like you are sliding around but after you get used to it they're great. You can clip in on either side which I like and I have only had about one issue with my knees since switching. I keep the cleats clean and use a dry wax lubricant about once every 1-2 weeks and also wear cleat covers when I'm walking around to extend the life.

As far as wheels are concerned if you're going to race get something you can afford to rebuild/replace. My crit bike has Mavic Ksyrium Elites, they're light and stiff enough. There are some good Neuvation wheels available for cheap and also look into custom wheels from local wheel builders. I had some Easton EA-90 SLX that were decent but not stiff, had some EA-90 Aeros that were stiff but kept popping spokes. Had some heavy Shimano RS-10's that a buddy gave me that I didn't like. Had a set of Mavic Open Pros with high spoke count that were heavy, stiff, and bombproof. There are so many options available, check out www.roadbikereview.com, there are forums and even a separate forum for wheels and tires. If you do decide to go custom and crash and break a spoke or rim they can rebuild the wheel cheaper than what it would cost to replace the wheel.

I don't think I will ever get another set of tubulars. They're just too much of a pain, the ride sure is sweet and probably the best I've experienced but it wasn't worth my time. If you've never had tubulars they are messy and time consuming, but if you're just going to use them for racing they might not be a bad option. I didn't mind taking the time to stretch the tires and then glue them, it was cleaning the rims that was the PITA. I had a set of Zipp 404 cross wheels that had 32 spokes front and back that were stiff as you know what and they weighed about 1300 grams. I bought them from a Zipp rep, they weren't available for sale to the public. Not only were they stiff, they rode like a dream but I got several flats and got tired of cleaning the rims. If you do end up getting tubulars you should look into Stans sealant, after I started using that I didn't have a single flat. I switched to Zipp 404 Firecrest clinchers just over a year ago and haven't looked back.

I need to get some pics of my new MTB up, I'm back on the trails since jtrain keeps making fun of roadies.
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Thanks man! Thats exactly what I needed to know. As for Crit wheels I am having a local wheel builder build me a pair around Chris King hubs, aluminum rims, 24/28 spoke count to support my 185lb butt and make them bomb proof. I found some good deals on easton wheels at another shop near by so I am thinking about getting a set of 56mm EC90 carbon clinchers just for road racing. Do you think the wheels you got just weren't tuned right or what? First I have heard of those problems with Eastons before. Not to say you aren't on to something that I should think about before making a purchase that big but if you found out what the problem was I am interested. You are the second person who has told me that about tubulars, I certainly appreciate the word on those. Makes me more confident in going with clinchers.

I also changed and am going with aluminum stem and bars. Mostly because I thought about having to replace them after a crash in a Crit. 3t pro's for both.

Thanks double for the word about the speedplays.

P.S. jtrain609 is stupid. Look at all the time and money is spending on a law degree he hates. :)
 
I have been riding Ksyrium SL's for two seasons, and I have been amazed how well they have held up to my weight. I am a little under 205 now, but I was 230 when I got them the first season, and I have hardly had to adjust them and I have 7K+ miles on them. That said, the road I ride most is in excellent condition.
 
Pilotforhire587 said:
Thanks man! Thats exactly what I needed to know. As for Crit wheels I am having a local wheel builder build me a pair around Chris King hubs, aluminum rims, 24/28 spoke count to support my 185lb butt and make them bomb proof. I found some good deals on easton wheels at another shop near by so I am thinking about getting a set of 56mm EC90 carbon clinchers just for road racing. Do you think the wheels you got just weren't tuned right or what? First I have heard of those problems with Eastons before. Not to say you aren't on to something that I should think about before making a purchase that big but if you found out what the problem was I am interested. You are the second person who has told me that about tubulars, I certainly appreciate the word on those. Makes me more confident in going with clinchers.

I also changed and am going with aluminum stem and bars. Mostly because I thought about having to replace them after a crash in a Crit. 3t pro's for both.

Thanks double for the word about the speedplays.

P.S. jtrain609 is stupid. Look at all the time and money is spending on a law degree he hates. :)
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You will like the higher spoke count wheels, I'm about 190-195 depending on the time of the year and really liked my 32 spoke Open Pro's. You will also love the Chris King hubs. Supposedly Easton had a bad batch of Sapim spokes, I probably broke a single spoke during a ride on about 5 different occasions. I sent the wheels back to be rebuilt and then sold them to a friend who was a little lighter and he didn't have any problems. I did know of 2-3 people who had a problem with delamination around the brake track on their EC-90 SL wheels. They were replaced under warranty and I believe Easton has fixed the problem. This was about 2 years ago. Sounds like you are buying your wheels locally. I strongly recommend buying wheels at your local bike shop instead of online. What you might save in money is not worth the hassle if you have a problem. If you do have a problem all you have to do is take the wheels back to the shop and they will either fix it or send them out for a repair/replacement. The manufacturer will fix what bikes shops send first before fixing items sent in directly from the consumer who usually bought online.
 
EDUC8-or said:
You will like the higher spoke count wheels, I'm about 190-195 depending on the time of the year and really liked my 32 spoke Open Pro's. You will also love the Chris King hubs. Supposedly Easton had a bad batch of Sapim spokes, I probably broke a single spoke during a ride on about 5 different occasions. I sent the wheels back to be rebuilt and then sold them to a friend who was a little lighter and he didn't have any problems. I did know of 2-3 people who had a problem with delamination around the brake track on their EC-90 SL wheels. They were replaced under warranty and I believe Easton has fixed the problem. This was about 2 years ago. Sounds like you are buying your wheels locally. I strongly recommend buying wheels at your local bike shop instead of online. What you might save in money is not worth the hassle if you have a problem. If you do have a problem all you have to do is take the wheels back to the shop and they will either fix it or send them out for a repair/replacement. The manufacturer will fix what bikes shops send first before fixing items sent in directly from the consumer who usually bought online.
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Have you ever ridden Zipp firecrests? Is the difference in price over the EC90's worth it?
 
Erik10 said:
Many moons ago and it made the most easiest task difficult.
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YES IT DOES!!!! Tomorrow will be be 5 weeks since the break and 4.5 since surgery. I hope like crazy at my follow up appt today I get released to be able to ride on the road again and start strength training on the shoulder. 95% of my range of motion is back but it still swells a little when I do PT stretches. I am shocked about this but I still have bruising from the crash in my arm. Fingers crossed
 
Good luck! I wish you a speedy recovery.

On a side note, I'm letting my mountain bike go and picking up a street bike. Do you guys have any suggestions in the $500 range?
 
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