JC Surfers?
- Thread starter dasleben
- Start date
dasleben
That's just, like, your opinion, man
I'm actually off from 8/17 to the end of the month. Unfortunately headed back out tomorrow to do some reserve in NRT. I thought about surfing out there, but I would have no business in 8'-12' surf.
Let's definitely try to have a mini JC Surfer meetup sometime next month. I have a wedding to go to on the 23rd, but anytime after that should be free.
fender_jag
Well-Known Member
I'm actually off from 8/17 to the end of the month. Unfortunately headed back out tomorrow to do some reserve in NRT. I thought about surfing out there, but I would have no business in 8'-12' surf.
Let's definitely try to have a mini JC Surfer meetup sometime next month. I have a wedding to go to on the 23rd, but anytime after that should be free.
How does Playa Negra sound? Or perhaps Tamarindo? I'd love to surf Costa Rica sometime.
bri-guy
Well-Known Member
Hey I just wanted to say Aloha to all the other JC Surfers. I live in Orlando and have surfed all my life. I was surfing a spot called second light last week which is the second light to turn into Patrick Air Force Base(Hence the name lol). That spot is my absolute favorite!!! Not just because the sand is perfect for small Florida surf but all the military planes fly right over your head at about 200 feet up as they are on final, its incredible!
Last week there wasn't any C-130's flying but a crop duster flew in, I was shocked because I didn't know the air force flew crop dusters but my air force pilot buddy told me they use them here in FL for training before they run drug ops in South America. Pretty freakin cool!!!
Last week there wasn't any C-130's flying but a crop duster flew in, I was shocked because I didn't know the air force flew crop dusters but my air force pilot buddy told me they use them here in FL for training before they run drug ops in South America. Pretty freakin cool!!!
A Life Aloft
Well-Known Member
Aloha, Bri!!!!
Okay so have any of you surf bums been out this week with the massive waves from the storms from Baja or what? I finally got to play hookey this afternoon, grabbed the long boards, my eldest son, one of his friends and two of my friends we hit Bolsa. I have been working all week and was watching the action on video and the reports from Malibu and Ventura yesterday, but man, that was just some crazy stuff....more like a violent washing machine. Sadly, one surfer went under and was dead/unable to be revived when the Life Guards got him back to shore. RIP.
We had a great couple of hours. The waves have tamed down quite a bit, but we had plenty of 5, 6 and 8 footers though there was a bit of a lag in between sets of them. But that was fine for me, I just sat on my board enjoying the nice breeze and the clear sunny, warm day, probably about 80-81 down there and the water was not too cold. We all had full suits on anyways. The rips are still quite strong, not quite as bad as they have been, still some very long running currents from hell along the shore. The tide peaked about 30 minutes before we got there and there was quite a pull out from the beach as the tide began to retreat. Still some very decent swells but not like it was Mon-Wednesday this week- not as hairy or churning - which is fine for my old ass. More decent barrels today and wider pockets. I only ate it twice today, and my soul feels better. lol
Okay so have any of you surf bums been out this week with the massive waves from the storms from Baja or what? I finally got to play hookey this afternoon, grabbed the long boards, my eldest son, one of his friends and two of my friends we hit Bolsa. I have been working all week and was watching the action on video and the reports from Malibu and Ventura yesterday, but man, that was just some crazy stuff....more like a violent washing machine. Sadly, one surfer went under and was dead/unable to be revived when the Life Guards got him back to shore. RIP.
We had a great couple of hours. The waves have tamed down quite a bit, but we had plenty of 5, 6 and 8 footers though there was a bit of a lag in between sets of them. But that was fine for me, I just sat on my board enjoying the nice breeze and the clear sunny, warm day, probably about 80-81 down there and the water was not too cold. We all had full suits on anyways. The rips are still quite strong, not quite as bad as they have been, still some very long running currents from hell along the shore. The tide peaked about 30 minutes before we got there and there was quite a pull out from the beach as the tide began to retreat. Still some very decent swells but not like it was Mon-Wednesday this week- not as hairy or churning - which is fine for my old ass. More decent barrels today and wider pockets. I only ate it twice today, and my soul feels better. lol
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dasleben
That's just, like, your opinion, man
Awesome! Glad you guys got to get a piece of that swell; I picked up a juicy 6-day, so I completely missed it. I'm bummed about that, but the ocean will be there next time.Aloha, Bri!!!!
Okay so have any of you surf bums been out this week with the massive waves from the storms from Baja or what? I finally got to play hookey this afternoon, grabbed the long boards, my eldest son, one of his friends and two of my friends we hit Bolsa. I have been working all week and was watching the action on video and the reports from Malibu and Ventura yesterday, but man, that was just some crazy stuff....more like a violent washing machine. Sadly, one surfer went under and was dead/unable to be revived when the Life Guards got him back to shore. RIP.
We had a great couple of hours. The waves have tamed down quite a bit, but we had plenty of 5, 6 and 8 footers though there was a bit of a lag in between sets of them. But that was fine for me, I just sat on my board enjoying the nice breeze and the clear sunny, warm day, probably about 80-81 down there and the water was not too cold. We all had full suits on anyways. The rips are still quite strong, not quite as bad as they have been, still some very long running currents from hell along the shore. The tide peaked about 30 minutes before we got there and there was quite a pull out from the beach as the tide began to retreat. Still some very decent swells but not like it was Mon-Wednesday this week- not as hairy or churning - which is fine for my old ass. More decent barrels today and wider pockets. I only ate it twice today, and my soul feels better. lol
Unfortunately I've only been surfing once in the last month due to work and some other commitments. It's alright, though... I should get some good sessions in while I'm home next week.
amorris311
Well-Known Member
Fall and winter being the best swells to SoCal. You are fortunate to be south of the Channel Islands since they seem to block a lot of the west swells in Los Angeles. We get some of the south swell but nothing like north county. Keep having a great time and even if you only have a few minutes just watch the waves. You can learn a lot by just sitting and watching.Awesome! Glad you guys got to get a piece of that swell; I picked up a juicy 6-day, so I completely missed it. I'm bummed about that, but the ocean will be there next time.
Unfortunately I've only been surfing once in the last month due to work and some other commitments. It's alright, though... I should get some good sessions in while I'm home next week.
bri-guy
Well-Known Member
I caught the tail end of Cristobal here on the east coast this Wed and Thurs, I surfed Cocoa Beach Pier and just south of there on Thursday. 4 foot with 5-6 foot sets, horrible rip that took you a half mile down the beach and pretty choppy but any day I can get in the ocean and do some surfing is a good day
fender_jag
Well-Known Member
Aloha, Bri!!!!
Okay so have any of you surf bums been out this week with the massive waves from the storms from Baja or what? I finally got to play hookey this afternoon, grabbed the long boards, my eldest son, one of his friends and two of my friends we hit Bolsa. I have been working all week and was watching the action on video and the reports from Malibu and Ventura yesterday, but man, that was just some crazy stuff....more like a violent washing machine. Sadly, one surfer went under and was dead/unable to be revived when the Life Guards got him back to shore. RIP.
We had a great couple of hours. The waves have tamed down quite a bit, but we had plenty of 5, 6 and 8 footers though there was a bit of a lag in between sets of them. But that was fine for me, I just sat on my board enjoying the nice breeze and the clear sunny, warm day, probably about 80-81 down there and the water was not too cold. We all had full suits on anyways. The rips are still quite strong, not quite as bad as they have been, still some very long running currents from hell along the shore. The tide peaked about 30 minutes before we got there and there was quite a pull out from the beach as the tide began to retreat. Still some very decent swells but not like it was Mon-Wednesday this week- not as hairy or churning - which is fine for my old ass. More decent barrels today and wider pockets. I only ate it twice today, and my soul feels better. lol
Some of the "leftovers" made it up to Northern California. I paddled out yesterday (when I finally had a little free time) just past high tide, and the swell was OK, but it would have been much better with a little less water. Gonna give it a go tomorrow as this SW swell should linger for a bit.
Wingnut was in the water, too (bonus points if you know who that is
). I should've asked him for some pointers on longboarding!
bri-guy
Well-Known Member
Some of the "leftovers" made it up to Northern California. I paddled out yesterday (when I finally had a little free time) just past high tide, and the swell was OK, but it would have been much better with a little less water. Gonna give it a go tomorrow as this SW swell should linger for a bit.
Wingnut was in the water, too (bonus points if you know who that is
Extra Extra points for naming the movie that made him famous? That was the first movie I ever watched in a movie theater, I am jealous you got to surf with him, he's amazing with that longboard!
Did anybody see the youtube of Laird shooting the pier in Malibu? This was during the swell btw
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A Life Aloft
Well-Known Member
Wish I had seen these posts yesterday, missed the boat. North Shore baby!! It's really a b film like some surfing films tend to be, but I still have it on dvd with a bunch of others and it does have some great pro surfers sprinkled in it here and there.
That was some really beautiful long crest riding and perfect timing between the pilings. Smooth and straight as an arrow, no dicking around in his footing either. Then he got down and low near the pier and glided right through. Terrific timing. Nice job. I wondered if he'd be out if he were around or if he was in Hawaii this time of year. The last time I saw him in person, was a couple of years ago in Maui when we were staying there and he was doing some towed in runs. He's in very good shape and a strong swimmer. I keep telling people that swimming is the best exercise out there. Plus, he is really into stretching and counter balancing, (working the muscles in all directions) which I also favor. He's really a pretty nice guy. Thanks for posting the video.
That was some really beautiful long crest riding and perfect timing between the pilings. Smooth and straight as an arrow, no dicking around in his footing either. Then he got down and low near the pier and glided right through. Terrific timing. Nice job. I wondered if he'd be out if he were around or if he was in Hawaii this time of year. The last time I saw him in person, was a couple of years ago in Maui when we were staying there and he was doing some towed in runs. He's in very good shape and a strong swimmer. I keep telling people that swimming is the best exercise out there. Plus, he is really into stretching and counter balancing, (working the muscles in all directions) which I also favor. He's really a pretty nice guy. Thanks for posting the video.
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amorris311
Well-Known Member
Laird Hamilton is a SUPER nice guy. Very encouraging to all surfers and embodies the beauty of the sport. I met him awhile back at a heal the bay fundraiser. Great guy!
fender_jag
Well-Known Member
Indeed he is amazing. Seems like a very nice guy, too.
That's incredible footage of Laird Hamilton shooting the pier, something I don't plan on attempting - thanks for sharing.
fender_jag
Well-Known Member
Could not agree more with the bolded part. Swimming is most definitely a lifelong commitment for me. Helps keep you young.
Back to the surfing: There were still some workable lines today. Get out there and ride a few!
A
Adler
Guest
SrFnFly227
Well-Known Member
Glad to see some other surfers on this site. I live in Virginia Beach so I don't get the best waves, but this summer has seen a few good swells push through from the hurricanes. Last week, I was in Duck, NC in a house that my in laws rented and got truly lucky on our timing. The weather wasn't the greatest, but the swell was amazing on 2 of the days. Nice 4-6 ft swell with off shore winds. Here's a view from the house.
dasleben
That's just, like, your opinion, man
Glad to see some other surfers on this site. I live in Virginia Beach so I don't get the best waves, but this summer has seen a few good swells push through from the hurricanes. Last week, I was in Duck, NC in a house that my in laws rented and got truly lucky on our timing. The weather wasn't the greatest, but the swell was amazing on 2 of the days. Nice 4-6 ft swell with off shore winds. Here's a view from the house.
Looks like it was getting nice and hollow!
fender_jag
Well-Known Member
Guys,
Hurricane Odile is a whopper. Be safe out there!
Hurricane Odile is a whopper. Be safe out there!
A
Adler
Guest
Making my own waves in Michigan
(I know the entry splash is poor form, but it actually is from hitting bottom in the shallows)
(I know the entry splash is poor form, but it actually is from hitting bottom in the shallows)
bri-guy
Well-Known Member
Glad to see some other surfers on this site. I live in Virginia Beach so I don't get the best waves, but this summer has seen a few good swells push through from the hurricanes. Last week, I was in Duck, NC in a house that my in laws rented and got truly lucky on our timing. The weather wasn't the greatest, but the swell was amazing on 2 of the days. Nice 4-6 ft swell with off shore winds. Here's a view from the house.
Is this anywhere near the outer banks? I heard the banks can get some incredibly good surf!!! Happy to have some more east coast surfers on here