Cessna 210 starter issues

No problem. Let us know how it works out. I do agree with the other guys that there is something wrong with the starter, but once that's fixed, these starting procedures should help you out.
If you don't mind me asking, what is the science behind the boost pump and flicking on high or low or whatever for a couple seconds. How does it work?
 
If you don't mind me asking, what is the science behind the boost pump and flicking on high or low or whatever for a couple seconds. How does it work?

It's priming the engine. And what works best on a particular engine is part art and part science. All you're doing is opening up the fuel lines (rich mixture, full throttle) and squirting a little fuel into the cylinders. Then you close the throttle (or close to it) and that gets the air mixture right with the fuel you squirted in.

It's similar to using the manual primer in the carbureted engines.
 
It's priming the engine. And what works best on a particular engine is part art and part science. All you're doing is opening up the fuel lines (rich mixture, full throttle) and squirting a little fuel into the cylinders. Then you close the throttle (or close to it) and that gets the air mixture right with the fuel you squirted in.

It's similar to using the manual primer in the carbureted engines.
That makes sense. Sorry for all the questions. Im always up for a chance to learn something new.
 
On the hot start procedure, should I flick the boost pump to "HI" or "LO" ?

Its interesting to see how finicky planes can get and how different the published procedures are from the ones that actually work.

It depends on how powerful your boost pump is, but usually the HI position is too much. There was one 207 I flew that I could jump into, push everything forward, flick the hi pump on and off as fast as I could, then pull the throttle back to idle, then turn the key and it would start before a single blade. Then I flew a 206 that required a ridiculous amount of prime, every single friggin' time. I'd have to prime it with the low boost pump for three or four seconds, but with the throttle half cracked. If I had it all the way forward, I could never get it to start on the first 3 blades. Strange, but play around with it, the checklist for starting the IO520s and IO540s aren't exactly a good reference.
 
It depends on how powerful your boost pump is, but usually the HI position is too much. There was one 207 I flew that I could jump into, push everything forward, flick the hi pump on and off as fast as I could, then pull the throttle back to idle, then turn the key and it would start before a single blade. Then I flew a 206 that required a ridiculous amount of prime, every single friggin' time. I'd have to prime it with the low boost pump for three or four seconds, but with the throttle half cracked. If I had it all the way forward, I could never get it to start on the first 3 blades. Strange, but play around with it, the checklist for starting the IO520s and IO540s aren't exactly a good reference.

While I agree, speaking truly from a C210 perspective msmspilot is correct. Those are out flows for engine start down to the last T. There have been plenty of times that it has taken more than 3-4 blades to start, but that is usually when i forget the priming step. I can tell you that that exact procedure worked for me a little of two hours ago and I will be using it again later today. Best of luck to all. I have over 1400 hours in the C210 and I still learning new stuff.
 
I agree with the starting procedures above...the IO-520 in our (new) 182 is a breeze to start if you just leave the red knob all the way in, prime as appropriate, retard the throttle to 1/8" to 1/4" open and crank. Beats the three-handed start that is prescribed in the manual. I'm curious if the technique will work in the IO-360s in the 172Ses we have, too. Sorry, threadjack.

Also has a high-torque starter that'll turn it OMGFAST :drool:...but that's tangential.

OP, your airplane is broken. I'd even consider putting a post-it over the master saying "Danger - Prop may turn". (Yes, that's always true, but it's been verified...)
 
Oh, if you're stuck in the field someplace without cell phone reception, you can try to beat on the solenoid to get it to unstick, but you have to know which solenoid, and since you'reposting this on JC, chances are you don't really need to use that technique.
 
I agree with the starting procedures above...the IO-520 in our (new) 182 is a breeze to start if you just leave the red knob all the way in, prime as appropriate, retard the throttle to 1/8" to 1/4" open and crank. Beats the three-handed start that is prescribed in the manual. I'm curious if the technique will work in the IO-360s in the 172Ses we have, too. Sorry, threadjack.

Also has a high-torque starter that'll turn it OMGFAST :drool:...but that's tangential.

OP, your airplane is broken. I'd even consider putting a post-it over the master saying "Danger - Prop may turn". (Yes, that's always true, but it's been verified...)
New 182s have IO540s. Completely different fuel injection system than the 520s. Never had leaving the red knob forward work out well with a Lycoming fuel injected motor, it tends to flood em even with the boost pump off...
 
New 182s have IO540s. Completely different fuel injection system than the 520s. Never had leaving the red knob forward work out well with a Lycoming fuel injected motor, it tends to flood em even with the boost pump off...

Yep yep, for IO540s here's what I always did.

everything forward
prime as required (this is going to very even between airplanes of the same type)
throttle and mixture all the way back (sometimes a little bit forward on the throttle)
starter - crank
adjust the throttle and mixture as required until it catches, then mixture at some specific point that permits combustion
adjust throttle as required
 
Yep yep, for IO540s here's what I always did.

everything forward
prime as required (this is going to very even between airplanes of the same type)
throttle and mixture all the way back (sometimes a little bit forward on the throttle)
starter - crank
adjust the throttle and mixture as required until it catches, then mixture at some specific point that permits combustion
adjust throttle as required

That's odd because our IO-550's we do the exact same as the 520's and I have yet to ever have a problem. Maybe the mechanics set ours differently? I doubt it could be that different though FWIW.
 
That's odd because our IO-550's we do the exact same as the 520's and I have yet to ever have a problem. Maybe the mechanics set ours differently? I doubt it could be that different though FWIW.

The 520 and 550 are Continentals.
The 540 is a Lycoming.

FWIT the mechanical fuel pump in my I0520 started leaking and had to be rebuilt a few years ago. Naturally the mechanic set the fuel flows to factory spes. My Hot Start procedure changed. I now pull the mixture out 1/2 way. Cold Start remains the same.
 
That's odd because our IO-550's we do the exact same as the 520's and I have yet to ever have a problem. Maybe the mechanics set ours differently? I doubt it could be that different though FWIW.

Both the IO550 and the IO520 are made by Continental, the IO540 is a lycoming engine.
 
New 182s have IO540s. Completely different fuel injection system than the 520s. Never had leaving the red knob forward work out well with a Lycoming fuel injected motor, it tends to flood em even with the boost pump off...

Yeah, I thought this engine was a Conty, but it's not, it's a Lycoming. This technique is straight from a Cessna factory instructor, no less.

It is a mystery... and it IS an IO-540 in the -T. I thought it was a Continental -550 or a Conty -520. :dunno:

:tmyk:
 
Yeah, Cessna got smart when they made the new-build 182s and 206s and went with Gray motors instead of Gold. Also, that IO-360 in your 172R (or S) is an amazingly bulletproof engine that is a delight to work on.
 
Ok, with over 1300-1400hrs in IO520s, here's what I say:

First start of the day:

Mixture, Prop, Throttle, Full Forward
Lo Pressure Boostbump on until the fuel stabilizes, (usually a few seconds) then off.
Throttle to idle, or just a little bit off the stop.
Key the starter, it'll fire right up.

A hot start

Mixture, prop, throttle full forward.
Boost pump on then immediately off (like as fast as you can flick the switch)
Throttle to idle
Turn the key, it should start in a couple of blades.

Some of them (depending on how they're rigged) don't like the application of any boost pump on hot starts, but for the most part, that should work just fine.

Exactly how I do it. Works like a charm.

I've had a dead spot in the starter in one of our turbo's. But that's about it for 210 starting probs.
 
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