Rainex and steel wool on windshield.

Nark said:
If I had the scratch I wouldn't even have a windshield!
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You can buy a kit for around $80 if they are hazed and scratched. It is labor intensive and you need a decent drill to do it, air preferably with a large compressor. Like everyone else said though, steel wool is a negative, and mostly around airplanes at all.
 
n57flyguy said:
Melt the coating? I thought for sure those would be glass...
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No, it'll actually melt the windshield itself; especially in the hot summer sun with the windshield bleed air left on, an no movement for a long period of time (if forgot to turn off during a mx event, etc). Probably more than you want to know but ram air mixes with the bleed air to cool the flow of hot windshield bleed air in the Ultra. If you loose DC power, you get just raw bleed air and no ram air cooling; which is one reason why it's recommended to keep the bleed air valves closed until you need them open.

At Simuflite (CAE) in DAL they brought in a windshield that had melted because of this reason as a warning/lesson, it was crazy looking, with some gnarly warping and very deep cracking/crystallization looking effects. Not a cheap repair.
 
General question, general answer.

And for those wondering, no I didn't steel wool my windscreen.
 
Nark said:
General question, general answer.

And for those wondering, no I didn't steel wool my windscreen.
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It sure sounded like it was a specific fact to me. I just don't want somebody to go do damage to a jet a/c because they read it on here. Those windscreens are extremely expensive.
 
That would also be a Darwin Award candidate if you ask me...

I come from the school of ask before doing something that'll become very expensive very quickly.


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My recommendation would be to use brass wool in any situation you are considering steel wool for.
 
Calvin and Hobbs Meter said:
No, it'll actually melt the windshield itself; especially in the hot summer sun with the windshield bleed air left on, an no movement for a long period of time (if forgot to turn off during a mx event, etc). Probably more than you want to know but ram air mixes with the bleed air to cool the flow of hot windshield bleed air in the Ultra. If you loose DC power, you get just raw bleed air and no ram air cooling; which is one reason why it's recommended to keep the bleed air valves closed until you need them open.

At Simuflite (CAE) in DAL they brought in a windshield that had melted because of this reason as a warning/lesson, it was crazy looking, with some gnarly warping and very deep cracking/crystallization looking effects. Not a cheap repair.
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This should only happen if the bleed air heat is left in the High position. The limitation is the windshield bleed air must be set to Low at -18C and warmer OAT. And yes when you have an electrical failure the bleed air fails in the open position so the mechanical valves should be left closed as you said.

In practice I almost never use the high setting so we don't risk any windshield issues.
 
Boskru said:
ROGER ROGER, micromesh brings back some memories eh? Good old composites lab!
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Bahaha. Man I wish we could get that group back together in one place around a keg and tell some of the crazy stories we've gathered since then and reminisce about the good old days.
 
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