JC Surfers?

amorris311 said:
I found a Hap Jacobs at a garage sale down the street from my parents house about 15 years ago. Best board I have ever had and most likely ever will.
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Man, what a find that was! He's from Hermosa just up the road. We used to hang around his shop on P.C.H. when I was a kid. He was a great guy, a tremendous surfer and a helluva fisherman to boot. It was wonderful when he got back into board making again in the 90's. He's in his 80's now and still shaping and surfing. Really, he's an icon.
 
dasleben said:
Even having grown up in and around the ocean, I'm amazed at how much there is to it in the surfing sense.
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Learning to read the waves, the currents and the winds really is an art and takes practice. The more you surf your beaches and in all four seasons, you'll learn them and remember how the bottoms change, how the breaks change etc. and you'll and be reading the tide and surf reports daily. That's part of the process and technique.

Longboards rock for many reasons and you need to remember to get on the waves sooner on one and really a longboard makes paddling out much easier than on a shorty. The taller you are the easier they are to lug the hell around too. lol It's pretty well nada to be able to do steep drops on a longboard either so it pays to get ahead on a wave sooner rather than later. You'll be able to catch smaller waves and keep a steady speed on a long board too. You need however to master the turtle roll and it takes some practice to do it smoothly. You have more room to maneuver while standing on a longboard too which is another advantage and when you master trimming, cross stepping and especially the drop knee, you'll be home. You'll also find after spending enough time with various surfers that the most mellow, way less hot doggy, more zen guys are all longboarders. It's a whole other mentality.
 
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Adler said:
grom
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A little old to be a grom. ;)

A Life Aloft said:
Learning to read the waves, the currents and the winds really is an art and takes practice. The more you surf your beaches and in all four seasons, you'll learn them and remember how the bottoms change, how the breaks change etc. and you'll and be reading the tide and surf reports daily. That's part of the process and technique.

Longboards rock for many reasons and you need to remember to get on the waves sooner on one and really a longboard makes paddling out much easier than on a shorty. The taller you are the easier they are to lug the hell around too. lol It's pretty well nada to be able to do steep drops on a longboard either so it pays to get ahead on a wave sooner rather than later. You'll be able to catch smaller waves and keep a steady speed on a long board too. You need however to master the turtle roll and it takes some practice to do it smoothly. You have more room to maneuver while standing on a longboard too which is another advantage and when you master trimming, cross stepping and especially the drop knee, you'll be home. You'll also find after spending enough time with various surfers that the most mellow, way less hot doggy, more zen guys are all longboarders. It's a whole other mentality.
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Sounds great! Can't wait to keep improving.
 
Man, two steps forward, one step back. Today was the step back, unfortunately.

Today I learned:

-Longboards on steeper faces must be angled to avoid pearling. :D
-The best surfers out there make it look easy. Smoothness of motion in every respect.
-Thou shalt not allow thy board to leave thy hands during a turtle roll with someone paddling behind you (ugh, I apologized to him again in the parking lot and made sure he and his board were okay). I'm not even sure how that happened; I guess everyone gets one.
 
staledog said:
I have several multi-day trips each year to Orange County (SNA), and I want to try it and get some lessons while out there. I have a car, so I could go anywhere from Huntington Beach to San Diego. Any recommendations on where the best place might be for this?
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In Huntington Beach, I'd give this a look: http://www.hbsurfschool.com/lessons.html

Further down the coast, there are great spots in Carlsbad, Encinitas, La Jolla, and Pacific Beach, and I'd venture to guess that you'll have little problem finding someone giving surf lessons at any of the above locations.

dasleben said:
Awesome, thanks! I'll look into adding those workouts into my training regimen. Thankfully my upper body strength is at a decent level already (thanks to CrossFit a while back), but the muscles necessary for surfing definitely need work.

The etiquette of surfing is cool... Having heard of some horror stories of fights out in the water, I went in well-read on who has priority, how to best get out to the lineup without getting in the way, etc. Oddly enough though, it seems like very few people out there actually go by those rules, at least where I go (a popular longboard break in San Diego called Tourmaline).
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I remember taking a lesson out at Tourmaline years ago. Not many people out, pretty good rides that day. One of my favorite spots in California is Scripps Institute (just north of the pier). It's one of the best rights I've ever surfed. Not too crowded, either!

South of the pier, you can give La Jolla shores a try, too.
 
dasleben said:
Man, two steps forward, one step back. Today was the step back, unfortunately.

Today I learned:

-Longboards on steeper faces must be angled to avoid pearling. :D
-The best surfers out there make it look easy. Smoothness of motion in every respect.
-Thou shalt not allow thy board to leave thy hands during a turtle roll with someone paddling behind you (ugh, I apologized to him again in the parking lot and made sure he and his board were okay). I'm not even sure how that happened; I guess everyone gets one.
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When gurgling make sure you are on the front of the board. It turns into a great wing when you sit behind on it. You live and you learn.

Don't ride the wave down, enjoy the energy of the wave and ride it for as long as you can.
 
dasleben said:
Man, two steps forward, one step back. Today was the step back, unfortunately.

Today I learned:

-Longboards on steeper faces must be angled to avoid pearling. :D
-The best surfers out there make it look easy. Smoothness of motion in every respect.
-Thou shalt not allow thy board to leave thy hands during a turtle roll with someone paddling behind you (ugh, I apologized to him again in the parking lot and made sure he and his board were okay). I'm not even sure how that happened; I guess everyone gets one.
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Lay some wax on the rails (edges and inward a bit) where you will be holding onto the board during the roll. Try and grip it and hold it at least in the center and even further back from the center. Stay vertical in the water and anchor yourself. When a wave breaks over you, thrust the board ahead of you and it will pull you along with it. Then get your ass back on the board. It just takes practice and building up your arm and back muscles.

As for pearling, that's why you need to get on the waves sooner in a longboard. It's a whole different line up. You should be sitting quite a ways outside and be up and cruising by the time you get to where you would normally start paddling on a shortboard. And paddle your ass off. Sometimes it will help for you to adjust your approach and angle the board just a bit, too.

You are doing pretty damn good for someone who just started, don't worry about it. You'll screw up, you'll learn more and each day will be something learned and you'll improve over time. Having fun and trying is where it's at.
 
A Life Aloft said:
Lay some wax on the rails (edges and inward a bit) where you will be holding onto the board during the roll. Try and grip it and hold it at least in the center and even further back from the center. Stay vertical in the water and anchor yourself. When a wave breaks over you, thrust the board ahead of you and it will pull you along with it. Then get your ass back on the board. It just takes practice and building up your arm and back muscles.

As for pearling, that's why you need to get on the waves sooner in a longboard. It's a whole different line up. You should be sitting quite a ways outside and be up and cruising by the time you get to where you would normally start paddling on a shortboard. And paddle your ass off. Sometimes it will help for you to adjust your approach and angle the board just a bit, too.

You are doing pretty damn good for someone who just started, don't worry about it. You'll screw up, you'll learn more and each day will be something learned and you'll improve over time. Having fun and trying is where it's at.
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This is why I like JC... You guys are a great resource even if we're not talking shop. :)
 
Been surfing for about ten years now, and since flying has gotten pretty busy this year I sadly haven't been in the water since December.

My best, simple, advice is to stay low for balance. Keep the knees somewhat bent, sticks always fall. Most of your weight on your back foot to turn, and use your front foot as a guide. For paddling think of moving your whole arm, and not changing the bend in your elbow, your back and lats should be pulling your arm back. Also cup your hand and keep your fingers together, this works as a much better paddle.

And finally watch the movie Step Into Liquid. Have fun, see ya in the water!
 
amorris311 said:
Swellmagnet.com

@dasleben

Hope you're accepting what the ocean is giving.
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Wish I was! I'm in NRT at the moment...not too much surf here. :)

I did end up checking out the reef break at Bronte in SYD a few days back, though. Of course, not a place I'd paddle out at yet. Beautiful south swell with offshore winds...

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Those waves look just like
Malibu break!

Reef surfing is an experience and I highly suggest you wear a helmet if you even venture out into one.

Just watch the ocean. Not only is it peaceful but you learn to read a lot of what the ocean is telling you. Visit the website for a couple of minutes and watch certain breaks throughout the world. Kinda cool and it's always something to look forward to.
 
I grew up on short boards and feel like a kook when I attempt to ride a longboard, but my best advice would be to get a solid duckdive, or turtle roll in your case. If you can efficiently paddle out and get through breaking waves, you will increase the frequency of attempting to catch waves. Learning to sit on the board is important too. That will help you quickly turn around to paddle for a wave.

Standing up to me came natural. My best advice for that, and wave selection, is simply just practice. I mostly do pushups in the off season. Even at my best physical condition, I feel like I have jello arms and want to puke after a good session.

SOCAL advice: shuffle your feet when walking in the shallows. A stingray can instantly ruin your session.

sZnYxM4.jpg
 
LeonPhelps said:
I grew up on short boards and feel like a kook when I attempt to ride a longboard, but my best advice would be to get a solid duckdive, or turtle roll in your case. If you can efficiently paddle out and get through breaking waves, you will increase the frequency of attempting to catch waves. Learning to sit on the board is important too. That will help you quickly turn around to paddle for a wave.

Standing up to me came natural. My best advice for that, and wave selection, is simply just practice. I mostly do pushups in the off season. Even at my best physical condition, I feel like I have jello arms and want to puke after a good session.

SOCAL advice: shuffle your feet when walking in the shallows. A stingray can instantly ruin your session.

sZnYxM4.jpg
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Ouch!

I don't have any trouble getting outside on normal days... Growing up in the ocean here in SD was certainly an advantage when it came to that. I'm new to surfing, but have always been competent when it comes to ocean swimming (been a diver for years). That's a big help now that I'm learning to maneuver a 9' chunk of epoxy around with me. ;)

Right now the big hangup is standing consistently; I can get up, but my balance needs work. A lot of work. But, like you said, I'm sure that'll come with practice. I'm planning to make a trip down to the Strand tomorrow or Friday. It might be mushy beach break, but right now I just need to get my wave count up rather than battle the crowds at Tourmaline (though on weekday mornings, I love Tourmaline!).
 
dasleben said:
Ouch!

I don't have any trouble getting outside on normal days... Growing up in the ocean here in SD was certainly an advantage when it came to that. I'm new to surfing, but have always been competent when it comes to ocean swimming (been a diver for years). That's a big help now that I'm learning to maneuver a 9' chunk of epoxy around with me. ;)

Right now the big hangup is standing consistently; I can get up, but my balance needs work. A lot of work. But, like you said, I'm sure that'll come with practice. I'm planning to make a trip down to the Strand tomorrow or Friday. It might be mushy beach break, but right now I just need to get my wave count up rather than battle the crowds at Tourmaline (though on weekday mornings, I love Tourmaline!).
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I grew up around the Daytona Beach area and never had a problem, or even heard other people with problems, with stingrays. I didn't know how bad they were in SOCAL until after one got me. I'd even see them up close free diving everyday in the Caribbean and think nothing of it (woo! 9k!). I think you're doing everything right though. Surfing is more addictive than any drug, and I feel like I'm limited in career opportunities by my desire to live near a decent coast.
 
dasleben said:
Ouch!

I don't have any trouble getting outside on normal days... Growing up in the ocean here in SD was certainly an advantage when it came to that. I'm new to surfing, but have always been competent when it comes to ocean swimming (been a diver for years). That's a big help now that I'm learning to maneuver a 9' chunk of epoxy around with me. ;)

Right now the big hangup is standing consistently; I can get up, but my balance needs work. A lot of work. But, like you said, I'm sure that'll come with practice. I'm planning to make a trip down to the Strand tomorrow or Friday. It might be mushy beach break, but right now I just need to get my wave count up rather than battle the crowds at Tourmaline (though on weekday mornings, I love Tourmaline!).
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When I was learning to stand up I practiced on the shore a lot like a couple other folks suggested. Going through the mechanics slowly and focusing on form and technique. I found it helped translate to the water to have the muscle memory down. The more I did it on land the faster and better I got at popping up on a wave. I also used go to a knee first then stand up, rather than going straight to my feet. It helped me find my balance for a split second before getting on my feet.

Best of luck, keep at it and if you're ever headed to any north county spots, let me know. The first round is on me!
 
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