JC Surfers?

Went out this morning to the usual spot. Usually a bit smaller than the other beaches, but it's 7 minutes from my house, and pretty empty all the time.

...surf camp...

Probably 150 kids in the water, where normally it's just me and maybe 2-3 others. I paddled past them and continued on along the coast through the kelp forest for close to 2 miles to get to "the cove". Three standups there. I got there right as it was dying, but still managed a few rides. Then we all paddled back to the beach. Still a great day.

Did I mention red crabs. Everywhere!
 
Adler said:
Went out this morning to the usual spot. Usually a bit smaller than the other beaches, but it's 7 minutes from my house, and pretty empty all the time.

...surf camp...

Probably 150 kids in the water, where normally it's just me and maybe 2-3 others. I paddled past them and continued on along the coast through the kelp forest for close to 2 miles to get to "the cove". Three standups there. I got there right as it was dying, but still managed a few rides. Then we all paddled back to the beach. Still a great day.

Did I mention red crabs. Everywhere!
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We have Surf PE where I live... If you're in the water between 10am-1130am on weekdays, you're just going to get overrun by a bunch of 16 year olds trying to do aerials and snaking you (and each other). Not even worth it.

Summertime crowds in the lineup are really getting up there where I live... I'm still managing to get my wave count (the beauty of living next door and surfing the break every day...you know exactly where to sit!), but I'm really having to compete for it. Also, since I ride a longboard 95% of the time, it's just easier to sit way out back and pick off the bigger sets (without being a wave hog, of course...get a wave, give a wave). ;)
 
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What I wouldn't give for even a small wave, crowded or not, red tuna crabs or not, overcast or not, anything or not. Getting my first set of lumbar epidural injections Tuesday. Hoping for the best. I miss the waves so much. I just was able to start swimming in the pool more this past weekend. Ride a few for me.
 
A Life Aloft said:
What I wouldn't give for even a small wave, crowded or not, red tuna crabs or not, overcast or not, anything or not. Getting my first set of lumbar epidural injections Tuesday. Hoping for the best. I miss the waves so much. I just was able to start swimming in the pool more this past weekend. Ride a few for me.
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Sorry my friend! Heal up quick... I'm in Japan at the moment... No waves where I'm at, either.
 
A Life Aloft said:
What I wouldn't give for even a small wave, crowded or not, red tuna crabs or not, overcast or not, anything or not. Getting my first set of lumbar epidural injections Tuesday. Hoping for the best. I miss the waves so much. I just was able to start swimming in the pool more this past weekend. Ride a few for me.
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Best wishes for a successful procedure and a quick return to the things you love!
 
Bob Ridpath said:
Best wishes for a successful procedure and a quick return to the things you love!
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Thanks so much Bob, really. I had an MRI recently and have some nerve issues which are what are causing the issues in my low back and many of the issues in my left knee. So I am hoping for a good outcome too. It all just seems to take so long. That's the crappy part really. But, it's a process, so I just have to deal with it and hope for the best. I am also waiting on the rep from Bauerfeind to contact my PT and measure me for a new custom knee brace. I also am trying out a new pair of custom orthodics that I just got today, there. Probably going to purchase my own tens unit to use at home too. It's like a puzzle with a lot of pieces that have to all be tried and put together to try and get everything back in a better working order. Takes time.
 
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A Life Aloft said:
What I wouldn't give for even a small wave, crowded or not, red tuna crabs or not, overcast or not, anything or not. Getting my first set of lumbar epidural injections Tuesday. Hoping for the best. I miss the waves so much. I just was able to start swimming in the pool more this past weekend. Ride a few for me.
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I wasn't complaining about the red crabs. They were really interesting to watch swimming all around.

I ended up going back out for a windy sunset session. Winds were 15+, and waves were pretty terrible, but it was tons of fun.

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Bob Ridpath said:
" ... Takes time ... "

And a lot more of it than when we were young :)
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Bejebus, you aren't a kidding!!! And I am in very decent shape, strong, work out, eat well and take care of myself and it's still a huge PITA! It's craptastic for sure. lol Really, I was overworking for so long, overdoing and ignoring these issues for many months. It wasn't until things really went south and I was in a lot of pain, that I knew I had to do something. So that is very much own, stubbornness, stupidity and fault. You can only "fix" so much and have control over so much, but I am trying to get things at least back to normal/better and man, it's an uphill deal and more complicated than I had first imagined. I didn't do myself any favors by ignoring the obvious for so long either. This is part of why it's just going to take longer than I would like to get better. I realize that it's not reasonable to expect everything to be undone/ repaired so quickly, it's just difficult to except. I am so used to being way more active, so it's difficult for me. To top it off, I had a bad backslide for a week, had to go back on some pain meds and it kinda freaked me out some. I'm better thought now, thankfully and back off those meds. And, it's Summer. sigh

Part of this nonsense has to do with me working a lot less, preparing for retirement, dealing with that and having time to do things now and not being able to do them. I am a hot little mess. lol But, it will all sort itself out eventually. It's a physical, mental and emotional thing happening that I am coping with, but I'll be fine. I'm just impatient and have my little nagging doubts and worries in the back of my mind and things to sort out, like we all do from time to time. :confused:
 
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Adler said:
I wasn't complaining about the red crabs. They were really interesting to watch swimming all around.

I ended up going back out for a windy sunset session. Winds were 15+, and waves were pretty terrible, but it was tons of fun.

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I knew you weren't, I am just have a tiny, asinine pity party. That's a beautiful photo. I am glad you are enjoying the water and the beach so much.
 
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Damn, your photos are always truly amazing. You have a lot of talent and a natural eye/feel for subjects.. I often peruse your works in the daily pics thread and have for a long time. I love the way the light is captured on the water and the simple silhouette. Perfect positioning too, really.
 
A Life Aloft said:
@tcco94 You can learn to surf at any age and even with some disabilities. All it takes is the desire, the commitment, access to a decent beach, time and practice. When you are able to change locales and ready, just find a local shop that offers lessons. You can start out on group and move on to individual lessons. It's a blast and you'll meet some cool folks! Like everything else in life, everyone was once a beginner and a newbie. As a newcomer, when they aren't too busy, a visit to a few Life Guard towers to say hi and let them teach you/show you the wave movements, the currents, the winds and what they mean, how they look like and what they do. They are experts, very friendly and more than willing to share their knowledge. You can also hook up with some buddies in your classes and make surf dates so you won't feel so alone. There are also usually some surf clubs around that you can check out and join. You can develop some stretching, balance and workout routines to help you along the way as well. Once you gain some confidence, ability and learn to read the waters, you'll never look back and you'll wonder what took you so long.

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Thanks for the tips! I only know a little knowledge on the surfline forecasts and swell forecasts from the live streams I'd watch on the pros or from finding good spots for boogie boarding. I took lessons once but it was a while ago. Should be moving in a couple months and I have Florida high on my list to instruct and to get at least closer to the ocean (even tho it's the other side of the country)....regardless of not being a surfer living in the mid west after growing up by the water is killer....especially since it's Montana.

I'll take any advice I can get from you guys when the day arrives and I'll keep reading!
 
Every morning that I'm not on a trip, I wake up at around 8am, grab my computer, and check out the surfline webcam. My freightdog mentality is still there, "who cares, we're going anyways." I don't look for waves, I look at the clouds to decide if I need a hat.

15 minutes later I'd be in the water, having tons of fun on whatever wave there is. The SUP catches everything - easy. Cutbacks, floaters, some weak noseriding. Even on ankle high days.

But after a few hours or two I'd need a break. I'd paddle a few miles through the kelp forest, search for dolphins, watch the seals... Rested, I'd come back and catch a few more. Load up the car and grab lunch at home.

The wind has usually kicked up by now, so I head down to the beach again with the skimboards. Ride a bit, rest a bit and watch the babes, ride a bit...

Dinner time.

With the winds calming down, I usually return with the SUP for a glassy sunset session.

Repeat.

But yesterday:

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I went back out in the afternoon on the 7 ft mini-malibu. Caught like two short waves in 30 minutes. Tried again this morning, not much better. While I floated, I watched the stand-ups catching everything and having a blast. I feel like I'm trying to cut a lawn with scissors.

I can't go skimboarding either cause of a foot injury.

So bored. I guess there is always Netflix.
 
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