JC Surfers?

So, I took @A Life Aloft's advice and slapped a Wingnut Longrake 9" single-fin on my longboard today and took it for a spin. For the last 7-8 sessions, I'd been surfing an undersized 8" single-fin with less base than the Longrake, which was a fun challenge (loose and required a fine touch). The verdict on the 9" Longrake? Love it. Noticeably tighter than the 8", which did cause my cutbacks to suffer a bit (I need to start working on drop-knee ;)), but the increase in drive on my frontside was great! I was able to really power through turns that would have caused the 8" to slide out, but would have been choppy and "stage-y" with the 2+1. Felt really nice on the couple backside rides I got, too.

I also just realized that it's been just over a year since I started this thread. Wow. Thanks all for the support and advice you've given me through the past year; I'm really stoked with the progress I've made so far, and while it's been a lot of hard work (with lots of falling ;)), persistence has really been paying off. Surfing has changed my life for the better, and you guys have been there for it. Thanks again!
 
Ha!!!!! I knew that fin would do the trick for you. You just wait, the more you use that board and fin combo, the better you'll get, the more maneuvers you'll discover that you can do so much easier, and you'll have way better control and stability. I am so glad that surfing has gotten under your skin, that you didn't give up or get discouraged and now you have a terrific passion that you can keep doing forever! I am so happy for you. With your personality, lifestyle and mindset, this is the perfect sport/hobby for you, really. It's so enjoyable mentally, physically and emotionally isn't it? You've come so far and done so well! Very cool! I just picture you sitting on your board with a glorious sunset at your back and a huge grin on your face!
 
Empty surfline poor combined with the SUP is quickly becoming my favorite kind of day.

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A Life Aloft said:
It's so enjoyable mentally, physically and emotionally isn't it?
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Absolutely. Can't describe it to others... I had a coworker tell me recently that he took a surf lesson in HNL at one point; he expected to have some sort of "moment of clarity" when he stood up in the whitewater, but naturally, did not. He said he felt the whole experience was a waste of his time. Too bad, because as I told him, the payoff for all the beatings taken in the whitewater is the first time you catch an unbroken wave and ride it to the shoulder. And even then, that's just the start.

Surfing is also interesting to me in that it forces you to confront yourself in a very direct way. Just floating in the ocean, there's no way to escape the chatter in your own head. You become very aware of the full range of your emotions (happiness, anger, discouragement, fear, anxiety, excitement, etc.), as well as all the junk that clogs up your head all day that really doesn't mean a whole heck of a lot. You're forced to focus, to observe, to see that all that extraneous chatter is not only nonsense, but harmful to your surfing. And of course, that's applicable to life out of the water, too.

And of course, it's really fun. ;)
 
dasleben said:
Absolutely. Can't describe it to others... I had a coworker tell me recently that he took a surf lesson in HNL at one point; he expected to have some sort of "moment of clarity" when he stood up in the whitewater, but naturally, did not. He said he felt the whole experience was a waste of his time. Too bad, because as I told him, the payoff for all the beatings taken in the whitewater is the first time you catch an unbroken wave and ride it to the shoulder. And even then, that's just the start.

Surfing is also interesting to me in that it forces you to confront yourself in a very direct way. Just floating in the ocean, there's no way to escape the chatter in your own head. You become very aware of the full range of your emotions (happiness, anger, discouragement, fear, anxiety, excitement, etc.), as well as all the junk that clogs up your head all day that really doesn't mean a whole heck of a lot. You're forced to focus, to observe, to see that all that extraneous chatter is not only nonsense, but harmful to your surfing. And of course, that's applicable to life out of the water, too.

And of course, it's really fun. ;)
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Joseph Banks, the botanist on Captain Cook's voyage to the South Pacific in 1769, had this to say about the native people enjoying surfing:
29th May 1769 – THE FIRST RECORDED DESCRIPTION OF SURFING

In our return to the boat we saw the Indians amuse or excersise themselves in a manner truly surprizing. It was in a place where the shore was not guarded by a reef as is usualy the case, consequently a high surf fell upon the shore, a more deadfull one I have not often seen: no European boat could have landed in it and I think no Europaean who had by any means got into [it] could possibly have saved his life, as the shore was coverd with pebbles and large stones. In the midst of these breakers 10 or 12 Indians were swimming who whenever a surf broke near them divd under it with infinite ease, rising up on the other side; but their cheif amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out as far as the outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness. Sometimes they were carried almost ashore but generaly the wave broke over them before they were half way, in which case the[y] divd and quickly rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands, which was towd out again and the same method repeated. We stood admiring this very wonderfull scene for full half an hour, in which time no one of the actors atempted to come ashore but all seemd most highly entertaind with their strange diversion.
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Taken from here: http://publicdomainreview.org/colle...l-of-joseph-banks-1769/#sthash.ml90Tw0z.dpuf”

:)
 
Surfing and the joy of it, is somewhat difficult to explain to others who don't surf. I suppose this has to do with the emotional and metaphysical aspects of this activity. The metaphysical connection in surfing is just something that can't be denied. It's easy to explain the physical elements; that it's incredible exercise, that you are using all of your muscles, toning them, building core strength, endurance and balance. But the lure to the sea and it's effects on your mind, body and soul, not so simple to communicate.

We are drawn to the ocean, and I believe that it is still something very primal lurking deep inside of everyone. It's the visual, the sound, the smell and the feel of the sea and it's vastness and eternal consistency, that envelopes and encompasses you in a feeling of belonging, of being home, of being a part of our nature. Unlike flying, (even in it's more glorious moments) there is nothing man made, artificial or mechanical about the sea.

It's the connection, the ability to read and experience the winds, the currents, the enormous power of the waves, the beauty and the stillness of water, the solitude and yet knowing you are not alone, that you belong. Fishing deep in nature, (fishing far away form other people) holds may of the same truths in that you are connecting to nature and a part of nature that is so much larger than just yourself.

You have the time to think, to feel and just to experience. You have the opportunity to become one with a wave, be with that wave and be a part of it. This is a very unique experience. There is also something very healing about salt water, it has benefits for your sinuses, your skin and for your soul. It's so different than freshwater, it feels, tastes different, it's somehow more alive, invigorating, and while relaxing you- it's astoundingly refreshing.

Surfing, unlike most sports is not about winning anything or conquering something or showing dominance over anything. This is why it doesn't appeal to everyone. It's about connection, it's about being an integral part of something and flowing with that something. In it's purest state, it's very zen like. It is the relaxing and the letting go mentally and emotionally that will bring you into an entirely new state of being, reflection and awareness. It's calming, freeing, soothing, familiar, and most importantly - it's centered. That is the core of surfing...centeredness

Because of all the spiritual and emotional connections, once you are hooked, you can't give it up. You long for it, you crave it and you need it. You dream about it, you remember it in your soul and it becomes of part of your being.

You can empty your mind, you can absorb you surroundings in a way you usually cannot.....without distractions and without silly hindrances. When you are sitting on your board, with the soft swell caressing your legs and gently rocking you, enjoying the sunrise or sunset, the wind on your face, some dolphins at play nearby, (and when you can interact and communicate with them- that is a whole other astounding experience) the smell of the salt and the vegetation, something inside of you just lets go. You give in. You open yourself.

It's pure and it's primal. It's a sense of connection and ethereal beauty that has existed long before man was here and will exist long after we are gone. And when you can make these connections, your ability to read the waters, be in tune with them and be a part of them is what actually improves your ability to surf them well and honorably.


"We're all equal before a wave." Laird Hamilton
 
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A Life Aloft said:
Surfing and the joy of it, is somewhat difficult to explain to others who don't surf. I suppose this has to do with the emotional and metaphysical aspects of this activity. The metaphysical connection in surfing is just something that can't be denied. It's easy to explain the physical elements; that it's incredible exercise, that you are using all of your muscles, toning them, building core strength, endurance and balance. But the lure to the sea and it's effects on your mind, body and soul, not so simple to communicate.

We are drawn to the ocean, and I believe that it is still something very primal lurking deep inside of everyone. It's the visual, the sound, the smell and the feel of the sea and it's vastness and eternal consistency, that envelopes and encompasses you in a feeling of belonging, of being home, of being a part of our nature. Unlike flying, (even in it's more glorious moments) there is nothing man made, artificial or mechanical about the sea.

It's the connection, the ability to read and experience the winds, the currents, the enormous power of the waves, the beauty and the stillness of water, the solitude and yet knowing you are not alone, that you belong. Fishing deep in nature, (fishing far away form other people) holds may of the same truths in that you are connecting to nature and a part of nature that is so much larger than just yourself.

You have the time to think, to feel and just to experience. You have the opportunity to become one with a wave, be with that wave and be a part of it. This is a very unique experience. There is also something very healing about salt water, it has benefits for your sinuses, your skin and for your soul. It's so different than freshwater, it feels, tastes different, it's somehow more alive, invigorating, and while relaxing you- it's astoundingly refreshing.

Surfing, unlike most sports is not about winning anything or conquering something or showing dominance over anything. This is why it doesn't appeal to everyone. It's about connection, it's about being an integral part of something and flowing with that something. In it's purest state, it's very zen like. It is the relaxing and the letting go mentally and emotionally that will bring you into an entirely new state of being, reflection and awareness. It's calming, freeing, soothing, familiar, and most importantly - it's centered. That is the core of surfing...centeredness

Because of all the spiritual and emotional connections, once you are hooked, you can't give it up. You long for it, you crave it and you need it. You dream about it, you remember it in your soul and it becomes of part of your being.

You can empty your mind, you can absorb you surroundings in a way you usually cannot.....without distractions and without silly hindrances. When you are sitting on your board, with the soft swell caressing your legs and gently rocking you, enjoying the sunrise or sunset, the wind on your face, some dolphins at play nearby, (and when you can interact and communicate with them- that is a whole other astounding experience) the smell of the salt and the vegetation, something inside of you just lets go. You give in. You open yourself.

It's pure and it's primal. It's a sense of connection and ethereal beauty that has existed long before man was here and will exist long after we are gone. And when you can make these connections, your ability to read the waters, be in tune with them and be a part of them is what actually improves your ability to surf them well and honorably.


"We're all equal before a wave." Laird Hamilton
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I always say surfing is my "reset" button. Your way of putting it is so much better.
 
A Life Aloft said:
Surfing and the joy of it, is somewhat difficult to explain to others who don't surf. I suppose this has to do with the emotional and metaphysical aspects of this activity. The metaphysical connection in surfing is just something that can't be denied. It's easy to explain the physical elements; that it's incredible exercise, that you are using all of your muscles, toning them, building core strength, endurance and balance. But the lure to the sea and it's effects on your mind, body and soul, not so simple to communicate.

We are drawn to the ocean, and I believe that it is still something very primal lurking deep inside of everyone. It's the visual, the sound, the smell and the feel of the sea and it's vastness and eternal consistency, that envelopes and encompasses you in a feeling of belonging, of being home, of being a part of our nature. Unlike flying, (even in it's more glorious moments) there is nothing man made, artificial or mechanical about the sea.

It's the connection, the ability to read and experience the winds, the currents, the enormous power of the waves, the beauty and the stillness of water, the solitude and yet knowing you are not alone, that you belong. Fishing deep in nature, (fishing far away form other people) holds may of the same truths in that you are connecting to nature and a part of nature that is so much larger than just yourself.

You have the time to think, to feel and just to experience. You have the opportunity to become one with a wave, be with that wave and be a part of it. This is a very unique experience. There is also something very healing about salt water, it has benefits for your sinuses, your skin and for your soul. It's so different than freshwater, it feels, tastes different, it's somehow more alive, invigorating, and while relaxing you- it's astoundingly refreshing.

Surfing, unlike most sports is not about winning anything or conquering something or showing dominance over anything. This is why it doesn't appeal to everyone. It's about connection, it's about being an integral part of something and flowing with that something. In it's purest state, it's very zen like. It is the relaxing and the letting go mentally and emotionally that will bring you into an entirely new state of being, reflection and awareness. It's calming, freeing, soothing, familiar, and most importantly - it's centered. That is the core of surfing...centeredness

Because of all the spiritual and emotional connections, once you are hooked, you can't give it up. You long for it, you crave it and you need it. You dream about it, you remember it in your soul and it becomes of part of your being.

You can empty your mind, you can absorb you surroundings in a way you usually cannot.....without distractions and without silly hindrances. When you are sitting on your board, with the soft swell caressing your legs and gently rocking you, enjoying the sunrise or sunset, the wind on your face, some dolphins at play nearby, (and when you can interact and communicate with them- that is a whole other astounding experience) the smell of the salt and the vegetation, something inside of you just lets go. You give in. You open yourself.

It's pure and it's primal. It's a sense of connection and ethereal beauty that has existed long before man was here and will exist long after we are gone. And when you can make these connections, your ability to read the waters, be in tune with them and be a part of them is what actually improves your ability to surf them well and honorably.


"We're all equal before a wave." Laird Hamilton
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Man, you are a hell of a writer! Couldn't have even attempted to put it better. :)

Surfing, to me, is... Life experienced directly. That's about as, well, direct as I can put it. ;)

P.S.: The right-go-left takeoff fade with the Longrake is rad! Single-fin is the best.
 
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It's a very pure and honest experience being one with/connecting with the sea isn't it? I've always loved the ocean..........was always meant to be in or near it, I guess. It was my first passion, even before flying. I think of the sea and how many billions of years old she is, all the continents and countries that she connects and touches around our little planet, about her first explorers, all the life she holds and nourishes and just how incredibly vast she is. Had I not been a pilot in the skies, I surely would have been one on the sea somewhere, I think.

Thanks for the kind words. It's easy for me to write/talk about the things that I love.
 
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fender_jag said:
Happy International Surfing Day to my fellow surfers!

http://www.surfrider.org/isd

Pretty small swell today, but it sure beats not surfing ;)
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Small and a little textured down here as well, but it was "bigger" than the rest of the week!

I went out... After phoning it in for the first 45 minutes or so (I've been out every day this week and am just getting tired... I know, rough life ;)), I found a good rhythm and got some good rides in.
 
fender_jag said:
Happy International Surfing Day to my fellow surfers!

http://www.surfrider.org/isd

Pretty small swell today, but it sure beats not surfing ;)
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I paddled a few miles of the kelp forest, then came back in for a few hours of waves. Got home, showered, ran to the store to grab some stuff for tomorrow's trip, and ended up stopping at the beach again for an hour of skimming.
 
etflies said:
For no particular reason:

http://thechive.com/2015/06/20/i-thinking-womens-surfing-has-become-my-favorite-sport-33-photos/
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Now, as a straight, red-blooded male, I certainly appreciate the T&A. :) But seriously, female surfers rock! Watch Stephanie Gilmore in particular... Such smooth, fluid style.

I've been out the past couple evenings (actually I've been out 11 out of the last 12 days I've been home :D), and I think have really pushed through some plateaus in my surfing. Really expanding my limits with the board and exploring the new fin (I can't say enough good things about this thing!). Been a good week, though unfortunately the new swell just popping up here in SoCal is peaking the day I go back to work!
 
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dasleben said:
Now, as a straight, red-blooded male, I certainly appreciate the T&A. :) But seriously, female surfers rock! Watch Stephanie Gilmore in particular... Such smooth, fluid style.

I've been out the past couple evenings (actually I've been out 11 out of the last 12 days I've been home :D), and I think have really pushed through some plateaus in my surfing. Really expanding my limits with the board and exploring the new fin (I can't say enough good things about this thing!). Been a good week, though unfortunately the new swell just popping up here in SoCal is peaking the day I go back to work!
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Welp, I'm jealous. I can't wait to get home and get back out.

As far as women surfers, they're awesome. I got to watch/meet Kassia Meador several years ago at a competition, she was awesome and very friendly. We had Coco Ho on a flight a year or two back, same with her. Very easy going and was happy to put up with our request for a photo after the flight because the CA's daughter was a huge fan of hers.
 
dasleben said:
Now, as a straight, red-blooded male, I certainly appreciate the T&A. :) But seriously, female surfers rock! Watch Stephanie Gilmore in particular... Such smooth, fluid style.
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I do like Steph and Coco Ho...but always been a huge fan of Lakey Peterson. I really enjoy her surfing...just hoping she gets some more experience under her belt and she'll be a force to reckoned with, I think. Carissa and Steph just dominate on all levels but I think the competition is getting tight. I also love Sally Fitz.

Grew up in NorCal but rarely surfed...unfortunately I got huge into boogie boarding and loved the thrill of trying to find barrels. Since I'm young enough I'd love to start learning at a young age...if I move back towards the beach. Just not sure how to get into it. I've been a huge time fan and follower of the ASP (or WSL now). As far as men's surfing goes, I was a huge fan of John John early on in his ASP career a few years ago before he became this huge name...and of course Kelly Slater.

Just discovered this thread..loving it.
 
tcco94 said:
I do like Steph and Coco Ho...but always been a huge fan of Lakey Peterson. I really enjoy her surfing...just hoping she gets some more experience under her belt and she'll be a force to reckoned with, I think. Carissa and Steph just dominate on all levels but I think the competition is getting tight. I also love Sally Fitz.

Grew up in NorCal but rarely surfed...unfortunately I got huge into boogie boarding and loved the thrill of trying to find barrels. Since I'm young enough I'd love to start learning at a young age...if I move back towards the beach. Just not sure how to get into it. I've been a huge time fan and follower of the ASP (or WSL now). As far as men's surfing goes, I was a huge fan of John John early on in his ASP career a few years ago before he became this huge name...and of course Kelly Slater.

Just discovered this thread..loving it.
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@tcco94 You can learn to surf at any age and even with some disabilities. All it takes is the desire, the commitment, access to a decent beach, time and practice. When you are able to change locales and ready, just find a local shop that offers lessons. You can start out on group and move on to individual lessons. It's a blast and you'll meet some cool folks! Like everything else in life, everyone was once a beginner and a newbie. As a newcomer, when they aren't too busy, a visit to a few Life Guard towers to say hi and let them teach you/show you the wave movements, the currents, the winds and what they mean, how they look like and what they do. They are experts, very friendly and more than willing to share their knowledge. You can also hook up with some buddies in your classes and make surf dates so you won't feel so alone. There are also usually some surf clubs around that you can check out and join. You can develop some stretching, balance and workout routines to help you along the way as well. Once you gain some confidence, ability and learn to read the waters, you'll never look back and you'll wonder what took you so long.

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