Temporarily moving for the company.

CaptQuagmire

CaptQuagmire

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

I live in Nashville and I got the call this morning that the company I fly for is shipping me out west to fly for 3-4 months.

I am single and own Condo/townhouse and I have never been away from home base that long, I am going to be leaving my house empty and am looking for advice on how to 'winterize' it for my time away. Nashville winters can get below freezing but never below zero. I have neighbors on each side but I don't know if my unit would stay warm enough be able to shut off heat while im gone.... No gas in my place, just electric..

..Things like shutting off water, draining the system, shutting off electrical...etc.

Thanks for the help.
 
Why not leave the heat on minimal (50F) or so? That should stop any pipe breakage and not cost a fortune.

Can anyone there check in on it from time to time for you? Might come home to a crack house if the wrong folks know you're gone :eek:
 
CaptQuagmire said:
Hey guys,

I live in Nashville and I got the call this morning that the company I fly for is shipping me out west to fly for 3-4 months.

I am single and own Condo/townhouse and I have never been away from home base that long, I am going to be leaving my house empty and am looking for advice on how to 'winterize' it for my time away. Nashville winters can get below freezing but never below zero. I have neighbors on each side but I don't know if my unit would stay warm enough be able to shut off heat while im gone.... No gas in my place, just electric..

..Things like shutting off water, draining the system, shutting off electrical...etc.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
~Forward all mail.
~Stop any deliveries to the condo.
~"Exercise" all water valves coming into the house then shut off (washer, dishwasher, ice maker, toilets, sinks, outside hose bibs).
~Wrap insulation around all outside above ground water pipes, use electric thin heater wire or low wattage light bulb when OAT dips to freezing. (have a friend monitor for you)
~Turn OFF any outside irrigation.
~Unplug all appliances. Turn off gas. (water heater, all gas appliances, each should have their own shut-off valve).
~Leave central heat ON but turn down to 58 or so.
~Confirm all windows are fully closed.
~If condo is really air tight, crack open two windows, one at either end of condo in order provide minimal air flow. (Builders use to aim for total airtight living space, since gotten away from that) Be aware that carpet and vinyl floor with particle board underlayment will still outgas urea/formaldehyde. Hence the desire for airflow.
~Put one indoor lamp on a timer to make it look like the place aint vacant. Maybe a porch light too.
 
Thanks guys, keep it coming.

All good stuff I've added to the list.. I do have people who can check in on it for me.
 
One other thing. Water lines need flow to prevent bursting from freezing. If your interior lines are run through an unheated space (attic) you need to have regular flow. A friend can do this for you or there is a recirc pump w/ timer you can put on the water line. Place it at the farthest away from the inlet, typically the water heater. The pump taps into the hot water side. It's primary purpose is water conservation but will serve your purpose too.
 
I live in Chattanooga in a condo. While I've not been away for 3-4 months I have been gone for 1+ month at a time.
Lock your doors. Forward mail. With a unit on each side your condo isn't going to get much cooler than 55 degrees-at least thats been my experience.
 
BajtheJino said:
I live in Chattanooga in a condo. While I've not been away for 3-4 months I have been gone for 1+ month at a time.
Lock your doors. Forward mail. With a unit on each side your condo isn't going to get much cooler than 55 degrees-at least thats been my experience.
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Is a vacated condo exo- or endothermic? :rotfl:
 
CaptQuagmire said:
Hey guys,

I live in Nashville and I got the call this morning that the company I fly for is shipping me out west to fly for 3-4 months.

I am single and own Condo/townhouse and I have never been away from home base that long, I am going to be leaving my house empty and am looking for advice on how to 'winterize' it for my time away. Nashville winters can get below freezing but never below zero. I have neighbors on each side but I don't know if my unit would stay warm enough be able to shut off heat while im gone.... No gas in my place, just electric..

..Things like shutting off water, draining the system, shutting off electrical...etc.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
'

I'm in nashville - if you need anything just let me know.
 
You can purchase a programmable thermostat that will regulate your heat throughout the day. It is good for busy people or families. I even think that there might be one that you can remote control through a computer maybe.
 
flyingmaniac said:
You can purchase a programmable thermostat that will regulate your heat throughout the day. It is good for busy people or families. I even think that there might be one that you can remote control through a computer maybe.
Click to expand...

Yes there is, but I'm thinking he's not going to want a computer and internet service sitting in his empty house ;)
 
jskibo said:
Yes there is, but I'm thinking he's not going to want a computer and internet service sitting in his empty house ;)
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I'm talking about operate it through his laptop (if he has one) away from home. It shouldn't require 1980's type of computer equipment in his house to operate it.
 
jskibo said:
No but it needs to have an internet conection, else how would the laptop talk to it? :dunno:
Click to expand...

Quick search, look what I've found!

"Our test System Access Module (pictured above) contains a radio that connects to the SkyTel pager network, and from there, it communicates with the Internet. "
 

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flyingmaniac said:
Quick search, look what I've found!

"Our test System Access Module (pictured above) contains a radio that connects to the SkyTel pager network, and from there, it communicates with the Internet. "
Click to expand...

You forgot this part....ROFL

To install a complete Carrier Infinity HVAC system could cost between $10,000 and $15,000, but to install just the Systems Access Module, along with the special dampers and zoning control module it requires is about $3000 installed. This remote <NOBR style="COLOR: darkgreen; FONT-SIZE: 100%; FONT-WEIGHT: normal" id=itxt_nobr_1_0>access</NOBR> system, first rolled out in early 2005, also requires Carrier's Infinity furnace and air conditioning system (pictured at left).

Our test System Access Module (pictured above) contains a radio that connects to the SkyTel pager network, and from there, it communicates with the Internet. There's an annual fee of $100 to subscribe to the SkyTel pager network to enable this unit to work. The module took considerable skill and expertise to install, and uses a signal finder that didn't require it to be connected to the Systems Control Unit to indicate a signal had been acquired. Carrier technician Paul Scott was able to position the radio in just the right spot in our facility to dependably receive its radio signals.
 
jskibo said:
You forgot this part....ROFL

To install a complete Carrier Infinity HVAC system could cost between $10,000 and $15,000, but to install just the Systems Access Module, along with the special dampers and zoning control module it requires is about $3000 installed. This remote <NOBR style="COLOR: darkgreen; FONT-SIZE: 100%; FONT-WEIGHT: normal" id=itxt_nobr_1_0>access</NOBR> system, first rolled out in early 2005, also requires Carrier's Infinity furnace and air conditioning system (pictured at left).
Click to expand...

It was just an example to prove its worth, that's all.
 
Thanks again everyone. I appreciate the responses.

At this point i've decided to leave the thermostat at around 50. Shut off the water and drain the pipes/toilets. I was told because I am on city water and it is chemically treated it is unnecessary to drain the water heater. Can anyone tell me why/why not this would be ok?
 
CaptQuagmire said:
Thanks again everyone. I appreciate the responses.

At this point i've decided to leave the thermostat at around 50. Shut off the water and drain the pipes/toilets. I was told because I am on city water and it is chemically treated it is unnecessary to drain the water heater. Can anyone tell me why/why not this would be ok?
Click to expand...
Could it be because they assumed you were concerned with sedimentation or maybe bacterial growth? Ask the city for the definitive answer.
 
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